Getting Sociable in Syria

Lost in translation

2009-04-21T07:32:00.001-07:00

Abu Quibes and migration

2009-04-21T07:24:00.000-07:00

This is the second United Nations Development Programme Protected Area that we are working in. It is on the west side of the country, near Hama, and forms part of a mountain chain running north to south up the spine of the country. Dense maquais (ie bloomin’ thorny) scrub predominates, with oak and pines amid the groves on the sun-blasted slopes. Great team here and we are out doing samples in 1km squares as well as vantage point logging of migrating species – mainly raptors and storks

1300 Eagles in a day cant be bad. Primarily Steppe Eagles, but in recent days, Booted, Lesser and Greater Spotted, Short toed (Snake to the Syrians) Eagle, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Goshawk, Kestrel, Levant’s Sparrowhawk, Long legged and Steppe Buzzard have all added to the mix. Non raptors have included big numbers of Black and White Storks as well as a surprise group of c.300 White Pelicans.

Egyptian Vulture

Passerines have included Masked Shrike, Cretzchmar’s Buntings, Orphean Warblers, Thrush Nightingales, hundreds of Lesser Whitethroat (probably nominate and Hume’s), Sardinian Warbler etc. A bonus surprise was an Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler.

Female black eared wheatear

Finches wheatear

Rock thrush (male)

A hunter's tale

2009-04-18T16:22:00.000-07:00

Part of promoting conservation here has always been talking to as many locals as possible. This time we were told of a prolific hunter who may be willing to meet us. A few phone calls later and it was arranged. We went to a darkened apartment block and were met by a larger than life friendly character who showed us his collection. Quite a revelation, with all manner of species stuffed and an ammo collection a small army would be proud of.

Species investigation gets underway

Among them were two Red-breasted Geese that we ascertained were the first and only Syrian records, having been shot in Feb 2007.

Red breasted geese and a red faced Maggs

The hunter was well aware that his pastime is technically illegal, but as he said it isn’t policed. He clearly had an intimate knowledge of his quarry and showed us many of the species he sees from our European Field Guide. He had never seen a bird book before, but was interested in their status, distribution etc. He suggested off his own back that something more practical, such as a permit system needs to be implemented, rather than an unworkable blanket ban. We left after several glasses of Arak as friends and with a better understanding of each others positions, and an agreement that no more White headed Ducks, Marbled Teal or Red breasted Geese would ever be shot by him now that he knew their significance.

White fronted geese and Ruddy shelduck massacre

Hot Shave

2009-04-18T16:16:00.000-07:00

Us going feral was too much for the Jebel team so we were taken out for a makeover Syrian Style. Being shaved with an open blade is always a nervy experience, but even more so when in security conscious Syria.

We went in looking like ho-bo’s, and came out as George Clooney and Robbie Williams – or so they told us!

Hywel goes into the barbers

Robbie Williams comes out!

Wolf!

2009-04-18T16:15:00.000-07:00

It was our final day in the Protected Area of Jebel Addul Azizz when we connected with wolves. We’d been out since 6ish and three hours later I was scanning down a dry gorge. Something stirred beside a tree, a dog maybe, so I put the scope on it. I couldn’t believe my eyes as a wolf, only a 100m or so away stood up and began to slowly walk up the hill side. I signalled for Zoober to come quickly, and he seemed to disbelieve me when I said Wolf, and told him to look in the scope. He grinned like a Cheshire cat – it was a first for him too.

As a one off wildlife experiences it is one that is in my top five. Killer Whales chasing seals and penguins off the Falklands and stumbling on an Armadillo in South America are two others.

Apologies!

2009-04-18T16:13:00.000-07:00

Apologies for the sparse postings this week. Things have been pretty hectic as the trip comes to an end and only occasional access to the internet.

Out and about: Birds

2009-04-15T08:12:00.000-07:00

Tawny pipit

Black Kite

Blue rock thrush

Desert wheatear

Marsh harrier

Sociable Lapwing

Penduline tit

Semi collared flycatcher

Night Owls

2009-04-11T03:53:00.001-07:00

A night out was arranged for a nocturnal adventure. Our guide took us to a cave where Desert Eagle Owl is known to hang out after dark. Suddenly in the cold gloom we could hear a gun being loaded. Our guide had a revolver in his hand and was brandishing it about. Things didn’t look good. We’d been lead to a cave in the middle of nowhere and our guide now brandished a loaded gun. Underwear was in need of a change. It was then explained that the gun was in case a wolf came out the cave and attacked us. Soon after we headed back to our accommodation - no owls, no nightjars, no hyena and no wolves – dead or alive.

Proper Protection

2009-04-11T03:51:00.000-07:00

The designation here made me smile. Not only is grazing restricted, and currently all but absent, but noise is controlled too. It is illegal to hoot your car horn in the protected area. Maybe SNH should try this level of protection at home!

Stop the hunting poster

There are local people picking a fungus that occurs at this time of year to eat, but the site is basically to be kept wild. Over the years hunting and overgrazing have had severe negative impacts. The idea of the UNDP is to rectify that.

“Nature is soul food” we were told. “This means total protection so your soul can benefit from nature.” Like it.

Jebel birds

2009-04-07T10:13:00.000-07:00

Isabelline Wheatears are everywhere, Egyptian Vultures daily and Lesser Kestrels at every turn. Short toed Eagles are crusing about and the gorges are smattered with Pied, Black eared and Finsch’s Wheatears. Hoopoes flush up from every wadi and larks abound in the plains. Corn bunting ‘sip’ in flocks and Redstarts flit from tree to tree. Nice place.

Isabelline wheatear

Egyptian vulture roosting on a pylon

Egyptian Vulture over the Jebel

Lesser Kestrel (female)

Finschs wheatear (male)

Hoopoe

Highlights have been Rock and See-see Partridge, Pin tailed Sandgrouse, Semi Collared Flycatcher, Scops Owl (sp), several Red tailed Wheatears. Reintroduced Common Gazelle are about too.

Common Gazelle

Return of the Kebabs!

2009-04-07T10:10:00.001-07:00

A 24 bout of illness hit home. With my guts sounding like a coffee machine going into warp factor 9 it wasn’t the best, but it is a fine way to loose weight. My belt slipped down two notches overnight! A small blessing was the fact that we were in a place with a pedestal rather than a squat toilet. No food for 36 hours and weaning back on with flat 7-Up to rehydrate.

The kebab shop!

Jebel life

2009-04-05T04:24:00.000-07:00

Jebel Abdul Azziz is a protected area (PA) for nature in the Syrian Al Jazeria (island desert). As part of a UN Development Program we are here to survey the site for birds and habitats. It is nearly 40km long, and about 4km wide and runs basically east to west. Mountainous and arid with a few pistachio trees and deep gorges. The later makes doing transects interesting to say the least! My calf muscles have turned to concrete.

The Jebel

We are based in an office to the east of the reserve, 30km from Al-Hasake, with basic accommodation, but a good new team. Hussien from Al-Raqqa is translating for us and we also have Mr Zoober, Mr Akmed the Driver, and Mr Security.

Mr Zoober, Mr Security, Mr Driver

Zoober is the bird researcher and it is good to see him flourish. His English is improving with us and we have had a laugh. We have nearly killed him, he reckons, walking 15km plus a day up and down steep gorges, in searing heat. He reckons he lost 7kg in the first three days.

Mr Zoober

Humanity

2009-04-05T04:15:00.000-07:00

We meet lots of nomadic shepherds but one today certainly made a huge impact on me. Usual friendly greetings ensued and he insisted on making a pot of tea by gathering some sticks to start a small fire. Typical translated small talk ensued, and was all smiley, then came an awkward moment. There was clearly tension between the shepherd and the translator. Eventually I was asked,

“America and Scotland like brothers?” No I said, “not brothers just friends.”

“One million dead, one million dead”, then a pause “Why?”. I knew exactly what he was talking about. Nervous, I was slow to answer and he said “Iraq. Why?”

“Greed” I replied after a minute of pondering, not wishing to discuss politics (something we have tried to avoid throughout), and this was passed on. Again an awkward silence and then the shepherd stood up. He stared deeply into my eyes, then suddenly grabbed me and hugged me, following up with a hearty handshake and pat on the back.

“F*ck Bush” he said. His first and only English of the encounter. Kind of says it all.

Out and about: In the desert 2

2009-04-04T01:52:00.000-07:00

Even the desert has boggy bits!

Typical desert houses

Meeting nomads

Nomad children

Tea in the desert

Splendid isolation

One for Troy

2009-04-04T01:36:00.000-07:00

Here is a Syrian school we passed at a village called Eiwa. The kids were all in blue uniforms, shirts and trousers, and were charging around the playground. The girls were wearing head shawls and playing football while the boys seemed to be playing tag. With often ten children in a family no sign of falling school roles here.

School playground

Jabbul

2009-04-02T23:42:00.000-07:00

What a place. Surely one of the largest, best and most important wetland sites in the Western Palaearctic. We spent a day here and only managed the NW area. The site really deserved a week. Here it wasn’t just quality, but quantity.

Jabbul Wetlands

Near on 12,000 Greater Flamingos was stunning, nearly 10,00 Shoveler and 298 of the globally endangered White headed Ducks was awesome. 18 chicken like Purple Gallinules stomping about the reeds added a bit of character while the general birding was non-stop.

Flamingoes

White headed duck

Purple Gallinule

Part of the lake is saline and salt is being extracted. However, due to contamination, the salt is currently condemned from consumption – perhaps an early warning about this site if something isn’t done about the effluent pouring into it from surrounding villages (and Aleppo?). There is also a threat of a large chemical works being built on its shores.

The two local wardens took us back for tea and we had a good chat about the site and birds in general. Two guys who need all the support they can get.

Waders on the Jabbul

Family day out

2009-04-02T02:02:00.001-07:00

Came across a car in a petrol station. Mum, Dad and 7 kids all sharing the two front seats of a pick up truck, with all their gear in the back. Impressive!

No room for seat belts!

Return of Mohammed 1

2009-04-02T01:49:00.000-07:00

The going got tough when various logistical problem and security problems manifested themselves. Mohammed 1 came to our rescue and smoothed things out. A feast at Mohammed's house to meet his family helped us relax.

The feast

His son Bashar, who is just six, impressed us by writing out the alphabet in English. Each night he learns five words of English, so that he can get a better start in life. Pretty damn impressive.

Bashar

Next day was Mohammed’s 40th birthday which meant more gorging on food……….

Heading for the hills

2009-04-01T01:10:00.000-07:00

When you read this John Wills and Graham Rebecca will be back in the UK. Thanks guys for a great trip. Myself and Hywell Maggs are staying out to work on another conservation project for the Global Environmental Fund (a UN project), all about Biodiversity in Protected Areas in association with the Syrian Government again.

A week in Jebel Abdul Aziz (a remote mountain range about 40km SE of al-Hasake) is then followed by a week in the NW near the Turkish border and the city of Latakiya. Both are labelled forestry projects and it is a new team of Syrians we’re are working with and training. Back to basics, but hopefully logistics might be a tadge easier this time in the north east.

Quick initial thanks

Just a quick thanks to all for the help with the Sociable Lapwing Project. Primarily Rob Sheldon for being patient, when we often weren’t, and being bombarded with queries in previous months and pulling it together for us (beer is due), and all the other UK RSPB staff (especially GC and Eilidh the other day when it hit the fan). Special mention to Richard Porter and Tony Marr for helping out with contacts in the early days.

In Syria special thanks to SSCW (especially Akram Darwish, Osama Al-Nouri, Roula and Sala) and Mohammed 1, Yassen, Hussein, Ibrahim, Mahmood, all the drivers, Ahmed in Deir er Zor, and Sharif at Birdlife Middle East in Jordan. I have probably missed some folk, so apologies.

Palmyra – a spot of history

2009-03-31T02:02:00.000-07:00

We felt obliged to do a spot of culture. The ruins here are on a par with those at Efesus in Turkey. Columns and pillars mark out millennia of history.

One of the main stories is about Zenobia (that’s were one of the ibis names comes from), a Queen of Palmyra, and beautiful woman, who fought the Romans. Her army defeated them then moved onto take what is now Saudi Arabia. They were beaten back to Palmyra, where the Queen tried to flee to Persia on a camel, but was caught and taken to Rome, where she was paraded in gold chains.

Talila Reserve

2009-03-31T01:40:00.000-07:00

This is where all the reintroductions happen. A project that has been guided by the Italians (especially a chap called Gianlucca Sierra). This shows how positive conservation can be. Habitat looks great and shed loads of larks and pipits about. In turn these attracted raptors including two Imperial and one Great Spotted Eagle. Stars bird wise though must have been the 5 Pallid Harriers that were continually hawking over the plains giving stunning views. Another must visit site if in Syria.

A cracking red spotted male Bluethroat followed us around by the gate at the Talila reserve following a fall of migrants (from a rain shower). PHAW!!!

Bluethroat

Also Rock and Blue Rock Thrush, both Black eared, Pied and Cyprus Pied Wheatear, Wrynecks, Desert Finch, Tree Pipit, Menetries and Sedge Warbler, Tawny pipit, Eastern Redstart and hundreds of chiffchaffs caught up in the fall. Fantastic birding.

Rock Thrush

Pied wheatear

Cypress Pied Wheatear

Wryneck

Desert finch

One hundred and fifty Arabian Oryx have also been reintroduced onto the reserve at Talila near Palmyra, along with now 600 Sand Gazelle. Cool to watch them wander about from the jeep. Very safari like. The difference in grazing each side of the fence was amazing. The sheep have grazed the steppe to buggery, but the Oryx graze differently and you get good flushes of wildflowers etc. One to be learned in certain parts of Scotland.

Arabian Oryx

Sand Gazelle

Bald Ibis

2009-03-30T13:34:00.000-07:00

One of the rarest birds in the world. Some birds still reside in Morocco but the only ones in the east are these birds and some in captivity in turkey. There are just 5 birds this year inc two ringed birds. More excitedly there are two unringed sub-adults reported, which means that they have appeared from an as yet undiscovered source. What a find that would be. These birds have been wintering in Ethiopia and migrating north. Tragically three were recently poisoned in Jordan.

Bald Ibis

We watched two birds, Sultan and Zenobia. You could see the satellite pack in the field. A real privilege. They are under threat from hunters, predators and starvation. Fingers crossed. Thanks to all the Ibis team who greatly helped us out and we hope our advise and comments were of use. These guys have the eyes of the world on them.

Temmincks, Bimaculated and Lesser Short toed Larks were good, as were Rock Sparrow, Chough and a trio of Egyptian Vultures. Just a shame about the rain!

End of Sociables

2009-03-27T06:47:00.001-07:00

John and Graham fly back to Scotland in a couple of days, the Sociable Lapwing side of things now complete. Myself and Hywell are around for a while yet with weeks each based in the Jebel ab Al Aziz, a desert mountain range in the north east, and Latakia in the NW near the coast. Both projects are to undertake surveys of woodland areas for the associated government ministry.

In summary the Lapwing work went well, but we perhaps didn’t connect with as many birds as hoped. It was something of a needle in a haystack job with difficult logistics and security. Sites, habitat and numbers were logged and data passed onto the authorities. Hunters were apprehended at one site and moved on from another (hunting is illegal in Syria) and the profile raising and education side has gone very well.

It looks like the steppe areas were slow to green up this year, due to dryer than normal conditions, which meant many historically good locations weren’t up to scratch when the Sociables moved through. Word is now reaching us that birds are in Iran and Turkmenistan, so they are heading north east and have now passed Syria.

Troy

2009-03-27T06:41:00.000-07:00

Got some tissues today. They were branded Troy, so here is Troy in English and Troy in Arabic. You’re famous son!

Out and about: In the desert

2009-03-27T06:30:00.000-07:00

Desert flowers

Lizard

Fox

Scarab Beetle

Syrian gerbil

Digiscoping

2009-03-26T05:11:00.000-07:00

Both John and I are doing a spot of digiscoping – they are the photos you will see on the blog. Hywell has a proper DSLR Canon camera set-up, but we are unable to send the pics out from Syria (technology). By the end of the trip Graham might have figured out how to switch his on!

White cheeked Bulbul outside of the Ziad hotel in Der er Zor

Digiscoping involves attaching a normal ‘family’ digital camera to your telescope. As we both have Swarovski scopes the results have been excellent. Any poor pics will be down to us or the heat/dust haze. The optical gear we use is top notch, and combined with the bright light gives good results. We are both using Swarovski HD scopes with zoom lenses. My camera is a Sony W300, while John in using a Panasonic Lumix.

White-tailed Plover

I have been digiscoping for years, with various set-ups. The first images I really remember taking were of an American Robin that was at Inverbervie, south of Aberdeen on Christmas Day 1988. In those days it was a Kodak Brownie held against a Napoleon naval draw tube scope. How times have changed. John is just starting up digiscoping but it picking it up fast.

Spanish Sparrow

Steppe Buzzard

Hoopoe Lark

Sand, Sand, and a wee bit of dust

2009-03-25T08:29:00.001-07:00

Another day in the field, another sand storm. We had to halt he vehicle at times as the visibility was so poor you couldn’t see what was coming towards you. One donkey on the road looked it had already bit the dust (no pun – honest).

Driving in a sandstorm

Checked a site where Dutch visitors and local hunters had reported birds. We found none in the area – well none alive, but remnants of Sociable Lapwings and hunters camps were strewn around.

Sociable lapwing remains

A large mixed lark flock was also present with 1200 or so birds. Mainly Skylark, but also a good smattering of Short-toeds and at least a couple of Lesser Short toe’s. Star turn though went to the dozen Bimaculated Larks – a chunky species typical of arid steppe habitat.

Bimaulated larks

English Menu

2009-03-25T08:25:00.000-07:00

In one restaurant we said we’d be back tomorrow. How surprised were we to be handed an English menu! They had someone translate it for them. How many places in the UK would do that?!

100 uses for a dead Hyena - No.37 Shop fittings

2009-03-23T16:28:00.001-07:00

Splat - we have seen three road casualties to date, just hoping we can connect with a live one

Saw one stuffed outside a shop today and went back to take a pic.

Look at the gnashers !

Red-tailed Wheatear

2009-03-22T14:53:00.001-07:00

Photgraph is now up below.

Mheimideh – Jewel of the Euphrates

2009-03-22T14:37:00.000-07:00

Unashamedly I have taken this title from a note by Dave Murdoch published in the OSME journal Sandgrouse. A great site to the north of Del ez Zor on the Euphrates. It is an ox-bow lake surrounded by villages and is under threat of being drained.

Graham spies over Mheimideh

The locals are familiar with the birds and the kids keen. One boy even came up and was saying ‘ducks, ducks!’ excitedly as he grabbed our scope for a look. The beauty of this site is it is neat, compact and the birds easily viewable. All the locals were friendly (as ever) and had an interest in the wildlife on their doorstep.

The boy who knew ducks

Birds were top notch too – 47 Spur winged plovers, 27 Ferruginous ducks, 19 Marbled Teal, Squacco heron, Red necked Phalarope, 24 Great white Egrets, Isabelline Shrike, Graceful Prinia’s and an assortment of wagtails.

Spur winged plover and Black winged stilt

Ferruginous duck

Marbled teal

The site is under threat from drainage. As such we took a chap from the local agriculture ministry with us and showed him the importance of the site. He was as impressed as we were and he is going to raise the issue of getting protection for the site. This is certainly one for us to work on and keep the pressure up with when we get home.

Black headed wagtail

Yassen

2009-03-17T04:05:00.000-07:00

When in Raqqa in became apparent to all that we needed a dedicated translator if things were to run at all here. Mohammed 1 -as we have dubbed him- did some calling round and found a nervous young man called Yassen, a 21 year old fourth year English student from Damascus University who was on holiday.

He came out with us initially for a day to see how he got on. Initially very nervous of us and all the entourage and goings on he has really come out of his shell and even after a few days exudes confidence. He was such a good apprentice we hired him, and haven’t been disappointed.

It’s been great for him too, meeting high ranking officials and practicing English with us all day long. We have discussed and learned about each other’s cultures, laughed, joked and birded together. For a guy who a week ago this was unthinkable, he is now touring the country with four Westerners and seeing places he has never been to either. He has quickly developed an interest in birds and always grabs a scope if one is spare and helps when we get surrounded by kids explaining what we are up to.

The banter has been good which keeps morale high (though Yassen really struggled initially to get to grips with Graham’s Aberdonian accent) and we have taught him a few Scottish phrases.

He woke up this morning and greeted us with “Fit like min” and a wry cheeky smile.

Yassen

Rumours

2009-03-16T12:31:00.000-07:00

At the Iraqi border site there are twenty one Sociables, but now word is filtering through about large numbers about 4 hours to the south of us. We're off, Dier-Ez-Zor here we come!

Sociable Lapwing and Hoopoe

Sociable Lapwing Female

Red-tailed Wheatear

2009-03-16T12:17:00.000-07:00

This species was a good bonus bird for a hard day in the face burning, wind swept steppe. Flitting around some buildings late afternoon it eventually put on a fine performance.

I had seen this species in Armenia way back in 1995, but it was a tick for everyone else, and a tricky bird to get in the Western Palaearctic.

Confusion (for us at least) still reigns about the taxonomic status of these birds. Basically there are two (sub)species – one with white at the basal sides to the tail, and the other with red. Both have reddish vents. This bird had white sides, which makes it of the form ‘xanthoprymna’, rather than the red sided ‘chrysopygia’.

The English names of Persian and Kurdish Wheatear have also been variously used in recent years for this attractive species. If you are Dutch, and follow their taxanomic rules, you can get two ticks for the price of one. Remco

Red-tailed wheatear

Northern Wheatear

Out and About in Syria

2009-03-15T03:59:00.000-07:00

The Place

While in al-Hasakah we have been hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture and Environment in an apartment. Pomegranate trees outside, three bedrooms, squat toilet and comfy living room.

Courtyard

Hywell eyes up chillies

Fantastic food!

Kids

We are always the star attraction in town. Some really cheeky kids. Handed out pens and badges to them as well as taking their pics and showing them on the back of the camera.

The audience

Mohammed 1

Ace guy who we all really like. He certainly has the patter and the swagger though and is a real character. He is a member of SSCW but works for the Ministry and has been with us on a few days in the field. He likes a bit of banter and I think is very proud to be seen out and about with us. He has arranged our meetings, the mosque etc. He even talked me into trying the hubble bubble (a smoking machine with cool fragrant tobacco -double apple flavour- definitely NOT my thing) despite his English being on a par with my Arabic. Then there is Mohammed 2…….

Mohammed 1 showing me the ropes

Hubble Bubble time

Where ever we go out here the Hubble Bubble can be seen. In Damascus the first restaurant we walked into everyone was puffing away – no smoking bans in Syria that’s for sure. Even the ladies were getting stuck in which was quite a surprise.

Eventually the Syrians have persuaded all of us to have a go. They are designed apparently to cool the smoke so it is smoother than a normal cigarette. The tobacco that goes in is fragranced. Strawberry was grim, and double apple (the most popular) wasn’t that great either. You rent them out in the cafes and the staff come and pop hot coals onto the tobacco to keep it burning. You then have to drag heavily to get the smoke to flow down the long hose like pipe.

Not one that will catch on in Stornoway I suspect.

The double whammy

Proclaimers

For the drive out to the desert this morning I got the MP3 player out for the first time. The Proclaimers seemed a good choice – even Yassen got into them and picked up some more Scottish phrases. Maybe Craig and Charlie need a Syrian tour!

Al-Jazeria

Not just an Arabic TV station. The past week has been spent surveying it, or at least its northern fringe. The literal translation means ‘the island’ as this patch of northern desert is road free and isolated. Dusty, stony, dry, cracked, harsh, arid, barren, sparse, sandy, hot, windy, acrid. That’s the Al-Jazeria.

Our convoy in a sandstorm

Scanning for Sociables

Trucking in the desert

Caspian Plover

2009-03-15T03:19:00.000-07:00

Among the Sociable was a smaller blander plover. Distantly it looked like a Dotterel but closer views showed it to be a Caspian Plover. This female was a new species for us all, and another tricky one to catch up with. In a similar fashion to Sociable these birds winter in east Africa before migrating north through Iran and the like to breed in the Kazak plains.

Caspian Plover

Male Caspian’s show a rusty breast band, but the females are duller and more washed out. Not complaining but here’s hoping for a male next time!

A handful have showed up as vagrants to the UK – Scilly, Fair Isle, Shetland and Lothian have all recorded birds in the past 20 years, but none have been easy to connect with.

March 11th – a fine day out

2009-03-14T11:07:00.000-07:00

Morning began with a meeting with the Chief of the Syrian Desert Commission (more on that later) and a lot of fiddling with vehicles and our ‘shadows’. Our security was upgraded from police to military as we were going close to the Iraqi border.

Male Finsch's Wheatear

Drove south from Al-Hassakh and saw some potential Sociable Lapwing habitat, but no birds. Then visited Lake Khatouniyeh, about 5 km from Iraq. Packed with quality birds. See-see Partridge first was a tick for all, which was followed by Desert Larks and three Finsch’s Wheatears, while John and Graham also bagged a couple of Hares legging it across the wadis.

Female Finsch's Wheatear

Various Stonechats, Penduline Tit, Desert Wheatear, Cyprus Pied Wheatear, four White tailed Plover, 650 Garganey among the throngs of waterfowl, 108 Red crested Pochard, 175 Cranes over, several Eastern Moustached and a Menetries Warbler. Isabelline Wheatears were all around, but no shrikes or Red-wattled (or Sociable) Lapwings. Mustn’t grumble though!

Desert Wheatear

Met Remco Hofland and his Dutch tour group who had earlier also seen an ‘orientalis’ Curlew.

We made a further series of searches of the good looking plover habitat as we headed back north finding 26 Sociables along with 3 Cream Coloured Coursers. Game on.

Cream Coloured Courser

Bad news was there was some spent shotgun cartridges in area. Hopefully the Sociables are on the move again though and we can start to pick more birds up.

Our bodies are starting to buckle under the effects of kebabs, so we opted for home cooked pasta, tuna and tomato tonight.

Marsh harrier in flight

Some of the Birds

2009-03-11T12:50:00.001-07:00

Citrine wagtail from the boat

Little owl

Spur winged Plover

Slender billed gull and Coot

Laughing Dove

Tea Time

2009-03-11T12:42:00.000-07:00

The Syrians are incredibly hospitable, stopping us and inviting us to take a cup of sweet green tea. Two hundred common cranes went over as we supped.

Police Checkpoint

2009-03-11T12:28:00.000-07:00

Got stopped and questioned today. Through translation it turned out the policeman's daughter lived in Colchester and he insisted on phoning her. So we had a chat. Bizarre!

March 10th

2009-03-10T13:56:00.000-07:00

We moved out of ar-Raqqa this morning and have set up base in al-Hassahak in the far NE, sandwiched between the borders of Iraq and Turkey. Staying in a government apartment. Birded en-route to hear. Pallid Harrier, Greater Sandplovers and 4 Cream coloured Coursers were seen in the steppe desert. Great birds. Additionally another eight Sociable Lapwings were noted. As the weather (and dust) has cleared we feel more positive, as birding is much easier. Hopefully lapwings will begin to move

Late news: the satellite tagged bird is still in Iraq and hasn’t moved. Hopefully it (and others) will soon and we can try and relocate them in Syria

March 8th

2009-03-10T13:55:00.000-07:00

We were honoured guests at the central mosque in Ar-Raqqa for the prophets Mohammed’s birthday celebration. We were very nervous, but were welcomed very positively by all 500 or so worshippers before sitting in the front seats by the Iman, who stood up and introduced us before telling people about our quest for birds in Syria. Again a positive response. Hearing the chanting and prayers was very emotive. A very humbling experience for us as individuals and westerners to be received with such open arms.

March 6th

2009-03-10T13:52:00.000-07:00

Bit of manic day, but we scored.

Drive to the M4 from Raqqa produced not a lot out of the ordinary, bar Gt W Egret, R R Swallow, 100+ Rooks (scarce in Syria). Checked Ewia et al for Sociable. Saw nowt to start. Got bogged in muddy track. Nearly an hour to get out. Took habitat shots. Got call from Sharif to say rumours of hunters having shot 100+ birds and seen 600. Later found hunters at Ar-Ruweria, camping. Say they had 15 days to go. Seen six Soc ½ hour before we arrived and may have eaten three! We chatted. Shotgun at skylark.

Later on way home having checked all M4 sites found 3 near Ewia at road side pool. 2 male and female. Watched for 20 mins then they ran up a swallow damp creek onto the Steppe.

March 5th

2009-03-10T13:51:00.000-07:00

Six hour bus trip out of Damascus. I think the bus station can honestly be described as bedlam. After a scrum we got our tickets and hit the road. Again special seats upfront where we got water and tea. No one else on the bus did. Two dead Hyenas roadside gave a hint at the mammal potential on the trip.

Dear Diary March 4th

2009-03-10T13:48:00.000-07:00

Good flight into Damascus. Quantum of Solace was watched twice, chicken and cheesecake were on the menu and a spot of Vino tinto made the BMI flight a good experience. We were met at the airport by a member of SSCW. He was only expecting two of us, not four, but a hired taxi and a 30km drive brought us into town. En route we were treated to Kenny and Dolly on the car radio and sign posts for Lebanon. That really made it sink in where we are.

Taken to an old Arab house in the Old part of Damascus. A labyrinth of back streets passing markets found the house. I guess you could call it a riyadh (or you would in Morocco). Open court yard, palm tree and clean double rooms. A Laughing Dove siting on a nest in the courtyard proved pour first bird of the trip. Mum soon flew off, to the palm tree, revealing two ugly squabs on a window ledge. Spring clearly comes early in Damascus. Texts home worked, and spirits high. Just about to head off for dinner at a restaurant round the corner.

Comms are up!

2009-03-10T13:42:00.000-07:00

After a slow start, dependent on texts only, we have now got email so are able to fill in the gaps as follows above........

Monday

2009-03-09T03:16:00.000-07:00

Quick post: We have a new fixer called Yassen who is great, speaks excellent English and has a fantastic sense of humour. He is teaching us about Islam and we're teaching him about Scotland, lingo and habits. There have been big dust storms so visibility has been poor, but very hot.

We haven't seen anymore Sociable lapwings but other good birds are around including sightings of the Iraq babbler.

First Sightings

2009-03-06T11:13:00.000-08:00

Found 3 Sociable Lapwings tonight - belter! Earlier met hunters who have seen 6 and ate 3, we think. They are here for 15 days more. We did not tell them that it was illegal as they were shooting when we were there. We did not want confrontation, but they were friendly. We took photos and have reported it.

At last!

2009-03-06T09:13:00.000-08:00

Arrived at last! Syria is a wonderfully mad and dusty place. Really friendly, people are inquisitive and very smiley. We now have a driver and a 'fixer' with us. Coffee is strong and served with Cardamom. We are now 6 hours north east of Damascus at Raqqa.

The road to Damascus just got longer...

2009-03-04T06:33:00.000-08:00

Car, ferry, bus, taxi, shanks pony, plane - well maybe not the latter. Our plans went into meltdown when 'Plane Stupid' (part of stop Climate Chaos) decided it was a good idea to play golf, Trump style, at Aberdeen Airport...on the run way. Thanks guys. We don't love Trump either - not just for one day...

Still we got on telly, got a free bacon sarnie from BMI and a freebie night at Heathrow. The other choice was to go to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, spend the night, then go to Damascus. All seemed a bit epic, so London it was. Omens good as we stayed in the (Bald) Ibis Hotel.

Rob S rang. The sat tagged plover is on the move and is now in Iraq. Hopefully no more travel hold ups or we might miss the party

Breaking news: Hywell spots England rugger team at Heathrow departures.

BBC: Scots bird team on Syrian mission

2009-03-04T01:21:00.000-08:00

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/highlands_and_islands/7917902.stm

RSPB Press Release

2009-03-02T08:21:00.000-08:00

Conservationists hope to get Sociable in Syria.

Team of four head to the Middle East

Four Scottish conservationists are heading to Syria this week (leaving on Tuesday 3 March) to search for the critically endangered Sociable Lapwing and bald ibis. The RSPB team Hywel Maggs, Graham Rebecca and John Wills from Aberdeenshire and Martin Scott from the Isle of Lewis will be swapping the damp climate of March in Scotland to search for the Lapwing-like species in the dry arid steppes of Syria.

All four hope to promote conservation through direct contact with local people and government officials, in a partnership first bringing together Britain’s RSPB, The Syrian Ministry of the Environment and the Syrian Society for Conservation of Wildlife through the Darwin Initiative.

Target species include Sociable Lapwing, a species that has declined sharply in recent years and breeds in Kazakhstan and migrates south in winter to Sudan. Recently satellite tracking of this species has shown that the northern Syrian steppes are a critical stop-over area for these plovers on migration and it is hoped that the Scottish team will be able to locate groups in the north eastern deserts.

Syria is also crucial for the fabled Bald Ibis. Only two pairs are known from the Middle East, all nesting in Syria, and these birds too have been satellite tagged. It is thought that they will return to their nesting ledges in central Syria in early March.

Martin Scott, RSPB Scotland Western Isles Officer said:

“All four of us are very excited. Syria looks to have some breathtaking habitats, from the lush Euphrates Valley to the dry steppes and stony deserts of the north. We hope to see lots of amazing birds, but more importantly pass on our knowledge and expertise to a nation that hosts some critical areas for wildlife. Of course, escaping the North of Scotland for six weeks at this time of year has certain appeal too!"

“This is a key international project. Work has been undertaken in Kazakhstan, Sudan and India on Sociable Lapwings, now it is Syria’s turn to be in the limelight. It is a vast country, but not enough is known about it's stunning birdlife. From correspondence, the Syrians are clearly passionate about their wealth of wildlife, and he hope to help them in any way we can. Being able to survey in such a country is a real privilege.”

Areas have already been earmarked as under the international designation of IBA – Important Bird Areas. This has helped to attract sponsorship from acclaimed Austrian company Swarovski, the optical manufacturer, and from the Darwin Initiative which assists countries that are rich in biodiversity but poor in financial resources.

Ends

For more information/interviews/images, please contact Martin Scott in the first instance on 07775 502799, or RSPB Scotland’s National Media Officer Davey Fitch on 0131 311 6500/07894 173 116. Attached are two pictures of sociable lapwing, pic credit RSPB.

Notes:

The team hope to run a blog about their adventures in Syria, at http://gettingsociableinsyria.blogspot.com/

The four fly out from Aberdeen on Tuesday and are in Syria for over a month. All four are very experienced. John Wills has worked on Sociable Lapwing in Kazakhstan and Martin Scott has surveyed in desert areas from the Atacama in Chile, to the Moroccan Sahara and steppes of Armenia. Graham Rebecca has worked on Ring Ouzels in Morocco. In addition to various international survey work Hywel Maggs has monitored migrants in the Eastern Agean, United Arab Emirates and Oman.

Additional information:

Links:

Syrian Society for Conservation of Wildlife (SSCW)

http://wacsi.unm.edu/affiliates/sscw-syrian-society-for-the-conservation-of-wildlife

SSCW is a pioneering organization that works for a sustainable wildlife within a frame of solid relations and partnerships to the development of the society .

SSCW works to protect the wildlife, its natural ecosystems, habitats and environment in a balanced and sustainable manner through gaining internal regional and international support to respond to the needs of all humanity and to link that to local development programs within a constructive and participatory approach

Syrian Arab Republic Ministry of Local Administration and Environment

http://www.mlae-sy.org/

Darwin Initiative

http://darwin.defra.gov.uk/

The Darwin Initiative assists countries that are rich in biodiversity but poor in financial resources to implement the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) through the funding of collaborative projects which draw on UK biodiversity expertise

Sociable Lapwing

The sociable lapwing, Vanellus gregarius, is a critically endangered species that has undergone a severe population decline in recent years.

http://www.rspb.org.uk/ourwork/conservation/projects/kazakhstan/sociable_lapwing.asp

http://www.birdlife.org/news/news/2007/03/sociable_lapwing_discovery.html

Bald Ibis

The Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita is a bird found in barren, semi-desert or rocky habitats. This 80 cm glossy black ibis has an unfeathered red face and head, and a long, curved red bill. It breeds colonially on coastal or mountain cliff ledges, and feeds on lizards, insects, and other small animals.

http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/species/index.html?action=SpcHTMDetails.asp&sid=3791&m=0

http://www.birdlife.org/news/news/2006/10/bald_ibis.html

Swarovski Optik

Nature conservation and species protection are a significant part of the corporate culture at Swarovski Optik, the family-owned Austrian company. Now, together with the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds), the manufacturer of sports optics in the premium segment is introducing a 3 year sponsoring project for BirdLife International. Swarovski Optik is the only manufacturer of optical instruments so far, to provide lasting support for a new programme for the protection of endangered bird species by sponsoring the Sociable Lapwing.

http://www.swarovskioptik.at/index.php?l=en&nID=x434b77aea49e60.39553720&c=news&newsID=1228221632__ID49352cc0c7ba32.61972107

The Team: Graham Rebecca

2009-03-01T11:56:00.001-08:00

Worked for RSPB since 1987, mainly on moorland raptors e.g. Merlin in Grampian & Tayside (Ph. D. in breeding ecology, sponsored by RSPB) and Hen Harrier in Grampian & Tayside and Orkney, and Ring Ouzel in Grampian. Current role as Conservation Officer for north-east Scotland, working from regional office in Aberdeen, and live on the outskirts of city. First sabbatical was also with colleagues from RSPB, and members of Tay and Grampian ringing groups. We surveyed, counted, caught and ringed Ring Ouzels in the High Atlas mountains in Morocco. I am really looking forward to my third visit to an Arab country and hope our work will aid the conservation of the Sociable Lapwing. Also looking forward to Martin giving me some great results from his laptop.

Age = 50 something, difficult remembering exact, but still remember Aberdeen 2, Real Madrid 1, European Cup Winners Cup Final 1983, ya beauty!!

Sign = Gemini

Help for the Sociable Lapwing

2009-02-27T04:12:00.000-08:00

Swarovski Optik and the RSPB Jointly Support birdLife International: Help for the Sociable Lapwing

Nature conservation and species protection are a significant part of the corporate culture at Swarovski Optik, the family-owned Austrian company. Now, together with the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds), the manufacturer of sports optics in the premium segment is introducing a 3 year sponsoring project for BirdLife International. Swarovski Optik is the only manufacturer of optical instruments so far, to provide lasting support for a new programme for the protection of endangered bird species by sponsoring the Sociable Lapwing.

The new BirdLife species conservation programme "Preventing Extinctions" for the more than 190 endangered bird species all over the world was presented at BirdLife International's four-yearly World Conservation Conference in Buenos Aires, Argentina attended by more than 500 delegates from over 100 countries. The joint venture between Swarovski Optik and the RSPB to sponsor the critically endangered Sociable Lapwing was also introduced - a project intended as a role model which will hopefully be followed by other international companies and organisations.
The population of this bird species, which is native to the Eurasian steppes (Kazakhstan and neighbouring regions of Russia) and over winters in the Near East, northeast Africa and in the north of India, has plunged in the last 25 years by more than 90 percent for reasons which are not yet clear and since 2003 it has been on the critically endangered species list of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as being at maximum risk of extinction.

Greater Protection due to Better Findings
Experts agree that better measures for protection and augmentation of the population can only be introduced by drawing conclusions from the decreasing population. Dr. Rob Sheldon, project leader at the RSPB, is convinced that "the bird's problems are linked more to its migration and wintering grounds than its breeding sites." One possible factor may be increasing drought at wintering sites. Much intelligence work and field research, however, still remains to be done and from now on use of the high-precision optical instruments provided by Swarovski Optik will make a significant contribution towards this. Additionally, with the Austrian company's backing, the birds will be fitted with tiny GPS transmitters which will help improve and intensify tracking of the migration route outside the breeding period. The Sociable Lapwing with a length of approximately 30 cm is the smallest species of bird to which mini-transmitters can be attached without interfering with the bird's way of life. Johannes Davoras, Director of Marketing, Product Management and Communication, commented on the new cooperation as follows, "Our products, such as binoculars and telescopes, are used for the most part in nature and are held in particularly high regard by birdwatchers. Hence, we consider it our duty to contribute to the preservation of endangered species and we hope that with our commitment it will soon be possible to increase the population of the Sociable Lapwing." The cooperation, initially set at three years, is to ensure sustainability with a positive impact on the population of the species.

Tick, tock

2009-02-24T11:34:00.000-08:00

Less than a week to go and preparations are in full swing.

Passport and visa sorted, US dollars bought and gear laid out on the spare bed.

Emails coming in by the bucket load and lots of other things to read. At long last there is light at the end of the tunnel and Syria seems within reach.